Textile Dimensional Stability

Textile Skewness (Spirality)

Textile Garment Appearance Test

Textile Color Fastness Tests

Textile Physical Tests

Textile Chemical Tests

Textile Ecological Tests

Textile testing frames an essential part textile production and distribution. With reference to the ever-growing consumer demands and complying with the stringent government rules & regulations,

•Fibre test: identification of fibre length, elongation and strength, etc.

•Yarn test: yarn count, strength, appearance, twist per unit length, etc.

•Fabric test: thermal properties, air permeability, thickness, shrinkage, stiffness, elongation, width, crease resistance, number of ends and picks per unit length, weight of fabric per unit length, etc.

• Garments

• Mattresses

• Carpets

• Luggage & Handbags

• Different types of paper

• Fabric

Count of warp & Weft (Woven Fabric)

Count of yarn (Knitted Fabric)

Count after removal of added matter

Ends and picks

Wales and courses

Width

Weight per unit area

Weight / linear meter

Twist per yarn

Cover factor

Crimp or take up of yarn

type of weave

Bowing / Skewing

Fabric thickness

Loop length

TENSILE STRENGTH:

Grab

Cut strip

Ravelled strip

TEAR STRENGTH:

Elmendorf

Single rip Method

SEAM PERFORMANCE:

Slippage

Strength

In garment

Seam bursting strength

BURSTING STRENGTH:

Hydraulic

Ball bursting

PILLING RESISTANCE:

ICI Pilling box

Martindale Tester upto

RANDOM TUMBLER PER:

30 minute Test

60 minute Test

120 minute Test

ABRASION RESISTANCE:

upto 10000 rubs

upto 20000 rubs

upto 30000 rubs

crease recovery angle

ABSORBENCY TEST:

Water drop method

Wicking height

WHITENESS INDEX:

Comparison against standard

Each additional sample

WATER REPELLENCY:

Spray test

Flammability ( as received and after dry cleaning / washing )

Electrostatic clinging of fabrics

COLOUR DIFFERENCE ( dE):

Comparision against standard

Each additional sample

Antibacterial activity assessment

Transmission or blocking of ultraviolet radiation

Ageing for evaluation of strength / smell / appearance

Oil repellency

Yarn count / denier

Count with cv %

lea breaking strength

Lea breaking strength with cv%

CSP

Single yarn breaking strength

RKM

Twist & ply ( per yarn )

number of filaments

Oil content ( 3 hours souhlet extraction )

BLEND COMPOSITION:

2 Components

Each additional component

Linen / Flax Percentage

Opinion about carded / Combed / Texturised Yarn

Opinion about ring / Open-end Spun Yarn

Visual assessment ( Eilament /Yarn )

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY OF FABRIC / GARMENT ( LENGTH & WIDTH ):

30° c/ 40° c ( single wash )

50° c / 60° c ( single wash )

At 95° c ( single wash )

Hand Wash

Garment (point to point measurement) single wash

Appearance evaluation after laundering ( single wash )

Appearance with dimensional stability ( single wash )

For appearance, each additional wash

Change in skewness in fabric or side seam twist in garment after laundering with dimensional stability

Home laundering package ( appearance, colourfastness, skew, dimensional stability )

Dimensional stability to dry heat

Relaxation shrinkage (is - 2977 )

Dimensional stability to dry cleaning – fabric

Dimensional stability to dry cleaning – garment

Appearance after dry cleaning with dimensional stability – fabric

Appearance after dry cleaning with dimensional stability – garment

Each additional dry cleaning fabric / garment

Care label recommendation

Care label verification

CROCKING:

Dry or Wet

Dry and Wet

Sweat Rubbing

COLOURFASTNESS TO WASHING

30° c / 40° c

50° c / 60° c

70° c / 80° c

At 95°c

At 95° c ( four hours)

Washing with Oxidative Bleach

Perspiration

Saliva

Water

Dry Cleaning

Chlorine Bleach

Non Chlorine Bleach

Non chlorine bleach in home laundering ( aatcc 172 )

Actual Laundering ( single cycle )

Hot Pressing

Dry Heat

Sea Water

Chlorinated Pool Water

Print Durability

Acid Spotting

Alkaline Spotting

Water Spotting

Organic Solvent

Sublimation

Mercerization

LIGHT ( XENON ARC LAMP )

UPTO 20 AFU / BLUE WOOL GRADE 4

UPTO 40 AFU / BLUE WOOL GRADE 5

UPTO 60 AFU / BLUE WOOL GRADE 6

Each additional 10 fading units

Light ( MBTL Method)

Migration on PVC

Phenolic Yellowing

Dye Tranfer on Storage

COMPOSITION & OTHER ANALYTICAL PARAMETERS

Blend compostion

2 Components

Each Additional Component

Linen / Flax Percentage

Fibre Label Recommendation

Fabric Defect Analysis

Identification of Class of dye or print (Per Colour)

Test for Mercerization (Barium Activity Number)

total Size on the Fabric

Water Soluble Matter

Ash Content

Wax Content

Total Extractable Content (AATCC 97)

BLEND COMPOSTION:

2 Components

Each Additional Component

Linen / Flax Percentage

Fibre Label Recommendation

Fabric Defect Analysis

Identification of Class of Dye or Print (Per Colour)

Test for Mercerisation (Barium Activity Number)

Total Size on the Fabric

Water Soluble Matter

Ash Content

Wax Content

Total Extractable Content (AATCC 97)

Count of Warp , Weft & Pile Yarns

Construction : Warp, Weft & Pile

Terry Ratio : Warp to Pile length Measurement

Pile Heigth

Absorbency (Water Drop Method)

pH Value

Banned Amines

Free Formaldehyde

Released Formaldehyde

Residual Chlorine Content

PCP/TCP/TECP

Qualitative Test for PVC (Beilstein Method )

Ssensory Test for Odour

Other ECO Parameters

Strength Test for Zippers as per ASTM D 2061

Chain Cross Wise Strength

Element Slippage

Top Stop Holding

Button Stop Holding

Holding Strength of Slider Lock

Test as Per 3084

Durability of Zipper

Reciprocater

Peel Bond Strength

Unsnapping of Snap Fasteners

Button Impack Test

Snap / Button Attachment Strength

Security of Handles, embellishments

stretch properties of stretch fabric

Appearance After laundering

Colour Fastness to dry Cleaning

Colour Fastness to Washing

Dimensional Stability to Washing

RESISTANCE TO THE ACTION OF:

Sea Water

Chlorine Water

• Appearance after dry cleaning or washing

• Crease resistance/recovery

• Dimensional stability to washing

• Flammability

• Garment shrinkage

• Oil and Water repellency

• Print durability

• Seam performance

• Side seam twist in garment after laundering

• Wash care labeling

• Tensile strength & elongation

• Tear strength

• Dry & Wet Rubbing

• Bursting strength

• Breaking Strengthe

• GSM - BS EN 12127: 1998 / ISO 3801 / ASTM D 3776

•

• Yarn count - ISO 2060: 1994 (Cone) / ASTM D 1059 (Knitted Fabric) / 2 Thread Fleece (Face knit & Loop Knit) / 3 Thread Fleece (Full, Semi & Loop Knit Yarn) / ISO 7211/5: 1984 (From Woven Fabric)

• Lycra Denier

• Yarn Twist - ASTM D 1422 : 1999

• CSP / Single Yarn Strength

• Delta E / Colour Difference / Whiteness Index WI / Yellowness Index

• Stitch length / Loop length

• Stitch density / Construction ASTM D 3887 - 2004 Knitted Fabrics / ASTM D 3775 - 2003 Woven Fabrics

• Snap / Button - pull strength In-House Method / EN Method

• ICI pilling - ISO 12945 - Part 1: 2005 Upto 18000 Revolution

• Martindale pilling resistance - ISO 12945-2: 2000 / ASTM D 4970

• Martindale abrasion resistance - ISO 12947-2: 1998 / ASTM D 4966 - 1998

• Bursting strength - ISO 13938 - 2: 1999

• Seam bursting - BS EN ISO 13938 [ PART 1 ] / ISO 13935-1 & 2

• Seam stretchability - HOUNSFIELD CRE

• Seam slippage - ISO 13936-1 : 2004

• Stretch & Recovery - BS 4952: 1992

• Tensile strength - ISO 13934-2 : 1999 (1 Inch Grab)

• Tearing strength - ISO 13937-1 : 2000

• Flammability - ASTM D 1230 (45°C / Vertical)

• Fibre analysis - AATCC TM 20 A: 2010 / ISO 1833

• Print durability - Corporate Method

• Phenolic yellowing - ISO 105 X18: 2007

• pH - ISO 3071: 2005 / AATCC TM 81

• Banned aryl amines - GC-MS Method

• Total lead / Suraface

• Nickel in non-coated / Coated - EN 1811 / EN 12472

• Free / Releasable formaldehyde

• PVC Content

• Phthalates - EC: 2000 / 769 / EC - FTIR Method

• Washing / Laundering - ISO 105 C06 : 2010 / AATCC TM 61 - 2010 / CAN / CGSB - 4.2 No. 19.1 - 2004

• Rubbing / Crocking - ISO 105 X12: 2001/ AATCC TM 8 / CAN 4.2 No. 22 / ISO 105 X16 / AATCC TM 116 (For Small Prints)

• Water - ISO 105 E01 : 2010 / AATCC TM 107 : 2009

• Perspiration - ISO 105 E04 : 2008 / AATCC TM 15 - 2009

• Light - ISO 105 B02: 1994 / Amd.2: 2000 (BWS 4) AATCC TM 16 (Option 3 ) 20 AFU / ISO 105 B02: 1994 / Amd.2: 2000 (BWS 5) AATCC TM 16 (Option 3) 40 AFU

• Saliva - 35 LMBG 82.10-1 in accordance to DIN 53160

• Drycleaning - ISO 105 D01: 2010

• Sea water - ISO 105 E02: 1994

• Chlorinated water - ISO 105 E03: 1994

• Chlorine bleach - AATCC TS - 001

• Non-Chlorine bleach - AATCC TS - 001

• Dimensional Stability - ISO 6330: 2000 / Amd. 1: 2007 / AATCC TM 150 - 2010 / CAN / CGSB - 4.2 No. 58 - 2004

• Skewness / Spirality - ISO 16322-2 & 3: 2005 / AATCC TM 179 - 2010

• Dimensional Stability + Spirality - ISO & AATCC

• Appearance After Wash - Washing as per ISO 6330: 2000 / Washing as per AATCC TM 150 - 2010 / Washing as per CAN / CGSB - 4.2 No. 58

• pH

• TDS : Total Dissolved Solids, ppm

• Total Hardness

• Calcium (Ca 2+) Ions, ppm / Magnesium (Mg 2+) Ions, ppm

• Iron (as Fe) ppm

• Free Chlorine, ppm

• Turbidity (NTU)

• Permanent Hardness / Temporary Hardness / Ca or Mg Hardness

• Total Solids, ppm / Total Suspended Solids, ppm

• Colour (Hazen Units)

• Chloride (as Cl) ppm

• Total Acidity

• Alkalinity (as methyl orange alkalinity)

• Specific Gravity

• Sulphate (as SO4) ppm / Sulphide, ppm / Manganese, ppm

• Phenolic Compounds / Sodium / Zinc / Lead / Nickel / Cadmium / Silica

• BOD / COD / Oil & Grease / Kjeldhal Nitrogen / Aluminium, as ppm

• Mercury (Hg) / Arsenic (Ar) / Tin (Sn)

1 Moisture Content

2 Trash Content

3 Fibre Maturity (NaOH swelling method) )

4 HVI Parameters

1 Wool Fibre length

2 Fibre fineness (Projection method)

3 Fibre strength (single fibre measurement)

4 Percentage medullated fibre content in wool fibre

5 Moisture content

6 Wool fibre grade of raw wool

1 Mean fibre length

2 Titre (denier) by cut and weigh method

3 Tensile characteristics of individual fibre and elongation:

* Tenacity and elongation at break (single fibre)

* Elastic recovery extra

* Modulus characteristics - extra

4 Fibre diameter / Linear density

5 Structural studies (IR Spectroscopic scan)

1 Lea count with CV%

2 Yarn appearance grade – ASTM (single spun yarn)

3 Strength of yarn / Tenacity:

* Single thread strength / Rkm / Tenacity with elongation (%)

* Lea strength and count

* Individual value

4 Evenness (U%) of

* Yarn

* Roving

* Sliver

* Spectrograph or diagram

5 Fibre staple length of yarn

6 Denier of multifilament yarn

7 Twist per inch including direction of twist per sample

* Single yarn

* Plied yarn

* Single of plied / cabled yarn

* Twist in filament yarn

* Balance of twist

8 Moisture content

9 Loop Strength

10 Hairiness

11 Length of yarn / spool

1 Dimensional Test :

* Width and length

* Weight per square /GSM / linear metre

* Thickness

2 Ends and picks

3 Count of yarn :

* As received

* After removal of added matter

4 Cover factor (inclusive of Count and Threads per inch)

5 Strength of yarn removed from fabric

6 Tensile strength of fabric with elongation

* At break

* At specified load, extra charge

7 Seam breaking strength

8 Seam slippage

9 Grab test

10 Bonding strength of bonded fabric

11 Permeability

* Water cone test

* Air (low pressure test)

* Water permeability

* Water repellency (Spray test)

* Bundesmann Water repellency

12 Twist per inch of yarn removed from fabric per sample

* Resultant

* Single yarn

13 Tear resistance (Tongue)

14 Tear resistance (Elmendorf)

15 Crease recovery – dry or / wet (Per wash extra charges as applicable for laundering)

16 Pilling resistance

• By Pill Box

• By Tumble Pilling tester- Atlas

• Upto 1000 rubs (Martindale)

• Each additional - rubs (Martindale)

17 Snap Button Pull Strength

18 Stretch & Recovery of Elastomeric fabrics

19 Stretch & Recovery of Elastic stripes

20 Heat Ageing Of Elastic tapes (upto 100 hrs)

• Tensile strength

• Water repellence

• Appearance

• Additional for 10 hrs and fraction there after

21 Ageing due to washing (per wash)

22 Bursting strength

23 Stiffness test

24 Type of weave up to 12 ends picks/ repeat/ knitting

25 Abrasion resistance (Flex / Flat / Edge)

26 Abrasion resistance (Martindale)

* Upto 5000 rubs

* Each additional 5000 rubs or fraction thereof- extra

27 Nature of yarn

• Staple / Spun / Filament and composition thereof

• Texturized / Non-texturized and composition thereof

• High tenacity

28 Composition (Count wise / Denier wise)

29 Melting point

30 Moisture content

31 Percentage crimp (Warp and Weft)

32 Fabric defect analysis / bleached / dyed / printed + applicable charges

33 Whiteness index – Instrumental

34 No. of filament in yarn

35 Paper

* Cobb value

* Opacity

* Brightness

* Breaking length

* Tear index

36 Drape test

37 Terry ratio (Pile ratio)

38 Skewness after home laundering (spirality) in Knitted fabric

* For single wash

* For each additional wash

39 Bow and Skew in woven fabric

40 Colour Measurement

* Colour difference

* Comparison of strength of dye

* Reflectance readings for calibration samples upto 8 level with spectral curve

* Comparison of strength of dyestuff on the basis of assessment on the dyed fabric

* Whiteness / Yellowness evaluation comparison between them

* Reflectance curve

* Visual assessment of colour difference

41 Heat Shrinkage

42 Shrinkage in boiling water

43 Nylon button strength

44 Nature of fabric

• Woven / Knitted

• Dyed / Bleached / Yarns of different colour / Printed

• Piled / Flocked

• Coated / Laminated / Impregnated

• Upholstery

• Lining / Interlining

• Reinforce material

• Warp / Weft knitted

• Embroidery visible to naked eye

• Tufted / Non-tufted

• Cut pile / Loop pile / Other

 

2. CHEMICAL PARAMETERS

 

 

A. FABRIC TESTING

 

1 Identification of fibre

2 Quantitative analysis inclusive of identification:

* Two component

* Extra for each component

3 Scouring loss (%)

4 Residual starch on bleached fabric

5 pH determination

6 Non-fibrous matter

* Oil, fats and waxes

* Water soluble matter (Cold water / Hot water)

Estimation of

* Ash

* Total size

* Finish

* Fatty matter

* Starch

* Alkali content

* Alkali solubility

* Acid content

8 Acid value / Free acidity of water

9 Chloride content

10 Copper or Zinc content in rot proofed materials

11 Test for mercerisation (Barium activity number)

12 Identification of dyes (per class)

13 Wool fibre content of raw wool Absorbency

14 Iodine absorption test

* of cotton fabrics

* of terry towel

15 Dimensional changes of woven or knitted fabrics

* To washing

♦ one wash

♦ per additional wash

* To relaxation

* Industrial fabric at 95 deg.

* Print durability after domestic laundering

♦ one wash

♦ per additional wash

16 Wettability

17 Residual chlorine in cotton fabrics

Flammability test

* Inclined plane

* Vertical plane

* Limiting oxygen index

* Upholstery & bedding items

• Smouldering Cigarette)

• Wooden cribs

• Carpet

19 UV & water vapour (per hour)

20 Smoothness appearance

21 Colour fastness to:

* Washing : With / Without multifibre staining fabric

• Test I

• Test II

• Test III

• Test IV

• Test V

* Light

By ISO / IS method

upto 3 BWS

♦ Above 3 to 4 BWS

♦ above 4 to 5 BWS

♦ above 5 to 6 BWS

♦ above 6 BWS

By AATCC Method

10 AFU

♦ 20 AFU

♦ 40 AFU

♦ 80 AFU

♦ additional 10 AFU & fraction thereof

* Bleaching

* Hot pressing (Dry/Wet/Damp)

* Rubbing (Dry / Wet)

* Organic solvent

* Dry cleaning

* Perspiration (Acid & Alkaline)

* Water

♦ By BS, ISO, IS method

By AATCC method

* Ozone

Saliva

* Swimming pool water

* Sea water

* Sublimation

* Mercerisation

22 Purity of salt – lime

23 Soda Ash

24 Purity of acid alkali

25 Rust proof

26 Wicking

27 Cotton waste – white

28 Cotton waste – grey

29 Wash care (includes CF to wash at 40oC, CF to dry cleaning, Shrinkage to wash, CF to hot press)

30 Soil release – oily stain release

31 Wetting oil efficiency

32 Dye ability of grey fab

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TENSILE STRENGTH:

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TEAR STRENGTH:

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SEAM PERFORMANCE:

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BURSTING STRENGTH:

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PILLING RESISTANCE:

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RANDOM TUMBLER PER:

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ABSORBENCY TEST:

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WHITENESS INDEX:

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WATER REPELLENCY:

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COLOUR DIFFERENCE ( dE):

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BLEND COMPOSITION:

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DIMENSIONAL STABILITY OF FABRIC / GARMENT ( LENGTH & WIDTH ):

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CROCKING:

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COLOURFASTNESS TO WASHING

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LIGHT ( XENON ARC LAMP )

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COMPOSITION & OTHER ANALYTICAL PARAMETERS

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RESISTANCE TO THE ACTION OF:

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